Table of Contents

Nestled in the vast Monongahela National Forest, the Dolly Sods Wilderness in West Virginia offers a truly unique hiking experience. Resembling the wild tundra of Northern Canada, this area boasts over 47 miles of rugged trails. Established as a federal wilderness in 1975, Dolly Sods is rich in history, from indigenous roots to extensive early 20th-century logging. It's a sanctuary for diverse wildlife and breathtaking landscapes.

Key Takeaways

Preparation is Key: Dolly Sods' weather can be unpredictable, ranging from sunny and warm to sudden snowfalls, regardless of the season. Always check the weather forecast, prepare for sudden changes, and pack accordingly.
Trail Complexity: The wilderness boasts about 47 miles of trails with varying difficulties. Some trails are well-maintained while others, like the Dobbin Grade Trail, can be quite muddy and less marked.
Ecological Richness: The area is a thriving ecological zone, having recovered from extensive logging in the early 20th century. It offers a rich biodiversity and unique landscapes resembling Canadian tundra.
Historical Depth: The area's history is rich with tales of early Native American tribes, European settlers, and extensive logging, all of which have shaped its current state.
Conservation Success: Designated as a federal wilderness area in 1975, Dolly Sods is a successful example of nature conservation, ensuring the preservation of its unique ecological character for future generations.

Traveling to the Trailhead

I was checking the weather before heading to Dolly Sods. It looked pretty good, with temperatures in the mid 70s during the day and low 50s at night. There was barely any rain expected, except maybe later on the last day. I planned to drive my Jeep for about 5 and a half hours to get to the trailhead and then camp out in my iKamper rooftop tent overnight at the trailhead. I hit the road around noon on a Wednesday and made it there by 6 PM.

Since I don't usually like to eat much before hiking, I just snacked a little bit. Unfortunately, there was no fire pit at the trailhead, so I didn't get to enjoy a campfire. Instead, I just relaxed outside and enjoyed the evening sounds. I turned in early and slept really well in the iKamper. It was one of the better nights of sleep I've had while camping. Different places have different vibes, and it really affects how well you sleep when you're out.

Dolly Sods Wilderness

For centuries, the indigenous people used the highlands of Dolly Sods as a hunting ground, with their presence dating back to prehistoric times. The Monongahela culture, who lived in the region from 1000 to 1635 AD, also called these highlands home, leaving behind unique pottery artifacts.

In the 18th century, European settlers, primarily German and Scotch-Irish, arrived and blended their traditions with those of the indigenous people. The name "Dolly Sods" originated from these settlers, with "Dahle" meaning "valley" in German and "Sods" referring to the grassy meadows.

Logging and Environmental Change

Logging in the late 19th and early 20th centuries drastically altered the landscape, stripping it of trees and causing severe soil erosion and altered water runoff patterns. The loss of vegetation exposed the soil, making it difficult for new plants and trees to grow, while disrupted water flows affected local vegetation and wildlife habitats.

Wildfires and Recovery

The nutrient-poor soil, left behind by logging, became prone to wildfires in the early 20th century, further hindering the landscape's recovery. However, over time, nature began to heal. The forest started to regenerate, with red spruce and other native species gradually re-establishing themselves.

Hiking the Bear Rocks Trail in the Dolly Sods Wilderness

Hiking as a recreational activity in Dolly Sods has evolved significantly over the years. The area has been accessible to the public for hiking since at least the early 20th century, although it became more popular after its designation as a wilderness area. The history of the region, marked by extensive logging in the early 1900s and subsequent environmental recovery efforts, has shaped the hiking experience, offering trails through recovering forests and regenerating ecosystems.

Hiking Statistics and Information

Number of Trails: Dolly Sods boasts approximately 47 miles of hiking trails, which vary in difficulty and offer everything from challenging treks to more leisurely walks.
Average Traffic: The area sees thousands of visitors each year, with peak visitation during the summer and fall months when the weather is most favorable and the fall foliage attracts many hikers and nature enthusiasts.
Conditions: The weather in Dolly Sods can be extremely unpredictable. Known for its rapid weather changes, the area can experience conditions ranging from hot and sunny to cold and snowy even within the same day.

What to Expect

Visitors to Dolly Sods will find an extraordinary natural environment with stunning vistas, including rocky plains, dense forests, wildflower meadows, and spectacular views of the Canaan Valley. Hikers should be prepared for potentially muddy conditions, especially on less-traveled trails like Upper Red Creek Trail, and always carry a map or GPS. Despite these challenges, hiking in Dolly Sods is incredibly rewarding, offering serene beauty and tranquil wilderness.

Dolly Sods attracts both solitude seekers and avid hikers, thanks to its extensive network of trails and diverse conditions. The area, designated a federal wilderness in 1975, spans 17,371 acres and is a testament to successful conservation efforts. Its protection ensures that this unique ecological haven remains a cherished destination for future generations.

The First Section

I got up just before the sun did, around 6 AM, and decided to skip breakfast. Instead, I figured I'd just push through to a late morning snack. But I couldn't start without at least some caffeine, so I whipped up a quick coffee at the trailhead—nothing fancy, just an instant Starbucks with a dash of white chocolate powder for a bit of sweetness.

My plan for the day was to tackle the steepest part of the trail looping around to some prime campsites by the water near the start of the flatlands. Honestly, the first half-mile didn't offer much in the way of scenery, which is pretty standard for most trails. But hiking alongside Red Creek was a real treat; the sound of the flowing water is just something else—I love a good mountain stream.

I was tracking my hike on AllTrails, just a typical mountain trail following a stream, nothing too challenging but quite serene. While there were plenty of spots to camp, I was more set on covering some distance and getting up that incline that had been on my mind. You know, every hiker has their preference—some are all about the climb, but I’m definitely more about the descent.

Crossing Red Creek

About 2.5 to 3 miles into the hike, I came up to the crossing over the Red Creek. To cross Red Creek in the Dolly Sods Wilderness is to engage directly with a challenging river crossing that tests the hiker's skill and preparedness. This encounter with a vital water feature shapes the local landscape significantly. Red Creek, part of the extensive drainage system of Dolly Sods, flows from highland bogs situated around 4,000 feet above sea level and descends through a dramatic canyon (West Virginia Highlands Conservancy). It serves as a tributary to the Cheat River, playing a crucial role in the area’s hydrology.

The creek itself, about 75 feet wide at the time I was there in this location, is lined with very slippery rocks, making crossings particularly challenging without proper gear such as hiking poles. This section of the trail, featuring the steep, muddy, and slippery grade near Red Creek Trail and the boggy section of the Dobbin Grade Trail, is considered hard due to the unstable footing and the width of the creek, which can vary significantly with weather conditions, especially during the spring melt or after heavy rains when the creek can swell and flow more vigorously.

The Ascent

I was gearing up to climb from 2,750 feet to about 3,900 feet in Dolly Sods. My goal for the day? To camp at a spot where a couple of rivers meet—I’d heard rumors of a waterfall there. I have to confess, the nerves were kicking in a bit. It was my first big hike of the year and I was on my own, which always adds an extra layer of excitement—or anxiety, depending on how you look at it.

Surprisingly, I reached my planned campsite quicker than expected, and without constantly checking my GPS, which is a rare thing for me. I always make sure to download maps beforehand, since cell service is nonexistent out there, and getting lost without a backup would be no joke.

I rolled into the campsite around 12:30 and decided to take a quick break for lunch before continuing on and putting some additional miles behind me. The spot was breathtaking—crystal clear waters at the river crossing and a quaint little waterfall that was just begging for some photos, or at least a few moments of quiet appreciation.

Next up was the "Flatlands" stretch. To be honest, it was pretty quiet. Usually, Dolly Sods is known for its mud, but I was as clean as could be—even after crossing Red Creek. I ended up stripping off my boots and socks to avoid soaking them, and the chill made me briefly worry about frostbite. Thankfully, once I got moving, my feet warmed right back up. This part of the hike was just open meadows and patches of budding evergreen forests. It was serene, really peaceful, with not much wildlife except for a few birds. It was one of those stretches where you just soak in the silence and keep moving forward, feeling the rhythm of your steps and the vast open space around you.

Big Stonecoal Trail

I was really looking forward to getting to the spot where Big Stonecoal Trail meets up with the Breathed Mountain Trail—that’s where the camping spots kick in again. There’s nowhere to camp in the meadow sections of this trail. By this point, I’d covered about 5 miles and started my descent gradually.

I always try to camp near water if I can, but it’s hit or miss out here, especially in drier seasons. In Dolly Sods, the streams can dry up pretty bad, but then turn into torrents if it’s been wet, with flooding becoming a real risk. Usually, that takes a sudden snow melt or a heavy downpour, but there’s been no rain for a few days and none expected soon. It’s always a bit of a gamble, which adds to the adventure, I guess.

The Search for Water

I haven't spotted much wildlife on this side of the trail, and it just feels colder and darker than the highlands, even though I'm hovering around the same elevation. But really, my main focus has been on finding water. I can hear it trickling all around, yet it's hardly ever accessible from the trail or practical to reach.

The usual stream beds are just dry patches now. And where I do find some water seeping through, it's hardly enough to bother with unless I'm in a real pinch. Honestly, I was just hoping to have some water handy for cooking and making coffee without a big hassle.

As I moved on, I spotted some potential campsites about a mile after turning onto the Big Stonecoal Trail, but the streams there? Dry as a bone. I kept going, passed a few more decent campsites, but still no luck with water. It wasn't until I got about a mile and a half to two miles further that things started to look a bit more promising.

The End of Day 2

So, I ended up hiking almost 9 miles and found this neat campsite right by a stream that really grabbed my attention. I had been following a couple of small streams for about a mile and a half, and they finally merged and picked up enough flow to be useful—not to mention they provided some nice background sounds for a night in my hammock. I rolled into camp around 3:30 pm, pretty beat, and took a good long rest after dropping my pack.

Initially, I had only planned on covering about 5 miles, but I ended up pushing almost 9, with a total elevation gain of around 1800 feet. After chilling for a bit, I set up my hammock, and then went on a bit of a scavenger hunt for firewood. Let me tell you, finding enough deadwood to keep a fire going until about 8:30 or 9 pm was no small feat. Dinner was just some creamy mac & cheese, which hit the spot, and then I just relaxed in my hammock for the evening.

The Storm

I hadn’t bothered putting the rain fly over my hammock since the last weather update I got showed a 0% chance of rain. But, nature had other plans. I started hearing distant thunder and saw flashes of lightning coming my way from the southwest. As soon as that first rumble of thunder hit, I jumped into action and got the rain fly up in under five minutes. I stashed all my gear under the hammock to keep it dry. Thunderstorms can really throw a wrench into a camping trip, and I wasn't taking any chances. I’ve been caught unprepared before, and soggy gear is no joke.

The fear can really get to you in moments like this, fears of flooding, encountering bears, or even trees falling. It's crucial to take a moment to steady yourself, regain some calm. I double-checked everything was secured properly because a poorly set up rain fly can mean waking up in a puddle.

Around 9:30 pm, the rain just starting to sprinkle down, cancelling my plans for an early night. The storm seemed to lose steam as they crossed the mountains, thankfully. I ended up drifting off to the sound of Joe Rogan’s podcast playing over the beautiful sound of rain.

Morning of Day 3

That night wasn't the best for sleep, although I did manage to doze off before the rain stopped—it must have lasted a good few hours. When I woke up, I half-expected to find my gear soaked, but thankfully, my setup had kept everything dry. You really have to be ready for anything when it comes to the weather in the Sods; it's wildly unpredictable. Seriously, it can hit scorching highs in the 90s or switch to snowfall any time of the year.

Morning found me feeling pretty refreshed and ready to tackle the last leg of my hike. I had just under 5 miles to go to get back to my Jeep. There’s this steep section coming up where the trail takes a sharp dive downhill. I’m usually more about the descent than the ascent—it’s easier on my lungs but sure does a number on the knees. The map showed I’d be dropping just over 1000 feet in about half a mile. Ready or not, I had to make that trek.

The Dolly Sods I expected

Yeah, after the rain the previous night, even the simplest trails turned into a bit of a soggy mess. The narrow paths, bordered tightly by rhododendrons, seemed like they were actively trying to wipe themselves off on me. Seriously, within 20 minutes, everything from my belt down was soaking wet, and the trail just kept getting narrower. I did spot a few campsites here and there—some were actually quite nice—but the trail itself was becoming harder and harder to follow and kept veering away from any water sources.

About 10 miles in, the situation got even trickier. I hit a point where the trail became really hard to follow. This was where I needed to switch from the Big Stonecoal turnned off of DunkenBarger Trail. Without my phone, I would've been wandering around lost for a bit. There were several small streams to cross, which wasn't too bad, but the real challenge was the mud. It was classic Dolly Sods—just thick mud that clung to everything, making it nearly impossible to pass without getting completely muddied up. The path was also getting tighter, forcing me to brush up against rhododendrons and other shrubs just to push through.

The Decent

I eventually hit this downhill stretch I’d been eyeing on the map. It looked pretty steep on paper, but turned out to be more gradual than I expected. Only about a fifth of a mile of it was steep enough to really start bothering my knees. I stopped briefly for a quick snack to recharge, but mostly, I was just focused on pushing through. The trail down was really picturesque, though the stream was too far off to really access until I got all the way down to the bottom. It was one of those parts of the hike where you just have to appreciate the scenery and keep moving forward.

The Final stretch

At the end of my hike, crossing the Red Creek was quite the challenge, especially after the previous night's rain. The dry stream beds I'd seen before were now flowing vigorously, including Red Creek itself. To minimize slipping, I decided to keep my shoes and socks on while navigating the stream a bit to find a better crossing point. This section turned out to be tougher than the one I'd tackled the day before. If you're planning to take this trail, just a heads up: there aren't many dry crossing options, so be prepared to get your feet wet. After managing that, it was just a short walk back to my Jeep. I had everything packed up from the morning, so it was simply a matter of stripping off my wet gear and hitting the road.

I'm reminded once again why this place captivates so many hikers. From the challenging ascent to the peaceful flatlands, each step offers a new perspective, not just of the landscape, but also of oneself. As I packed up my gear and headed back, I was filled with a sense of accomplishment and a deeper connection to nature. If you're planning a trip to Dolly Sods, prepare to be awed by its rugged beauty and tranquil spots. Don’t forget to download your maps, gear up appropriately, and maybe, just like me, you’ll find unexpected joy in the serene wilderness. Ready for your own Dolly Sods adventure? The trails are calling!

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Q1: When was hiking first popularized in Dolly Sods?

A: Hiking in Dolly Sods became more popular after its designation as a wilderness area in 1975, although the region was accessible for hiking and other recreational activities since at least the early 20th century.

Q2: How many visitors does Dolly Sods receive annually?

A: The area sees thousands of visitors each year, especially during the summer and fall months, which are peak seasons due to favorable weather and the stunning fall foliage.

Q3: What are some of the challenges hikers might face in Dolly Sods?

A: Hikers may encounter unpredictable weather, poorly marked trails, and muddy conditions. Some areas may also require navigation skills due to less frequent maintenance.

Q4: What should hikers expect in terms of trail conditions and amenities?

A: Trails vary from easy walks to challenging treks. Facilities like campsites are available, but amenities like fire pits may not be present at all locations. Always come prepared with essential supplies and water.

Q5: Are there any safety tips for first-time visitors to Dolly Sods?

A: Yes, first-time visitors should:
- Always carry a map or GPS device due to potential poor cell service.
- Prepare for rapid weather changes by packing layered clothing.
- Be aware of wildlife and practice safe food storage to avoid attracting bears.
- Familiarize themselves with the trails using guides or the AllTrails app to ensure they are on the right path.

Q6: What makes Dolly Sods a unique hiking destination?

A: Its unique ecological characteristics, similar to those found in northern Canada, extensive trail network, and the dramatic recovery and preservation efforts make it a standout destination for hikers and nature enthusiasts alike.

Lower Loop Solo Adventure in the Dolly Sods Wilderness